I didn't cook with citrus until I started exploring the food of North Africa about 10 years ago. This was triggered by an article in the New York Times Magazine about preserved lemons. I made them immediately and became hooked on Moroccan food, which uses citrus as an ingredient in many dishes. One of the first things I made was this salad featuring oranges, and I’ve returned to it many times since. It also uses preserved lemons, but if you don't have them on hand, it’s still excellent without them. The salad is an especially good complement to rich Moroccan stews and tagines, or any rich meal. Vary the quantities according to number of people and your tastes.


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