Choosing to eat only, say, sustainable chicken may at times be confusing, but whatever obscurity you run into there has nothing on the dank murk of information when it comes to finding seafood fit to be called "sustainable." The sea is very, very dark, and very, very big, and so all kinds of factors and questions come into play, from place and species to how fish are caught or grown. Let's just say you feel like having salmon tonight. OK, here goes: Lots of Alaskan sockeye salmon is legitimately "sustainable," while much salmon from California to Washington is flirting with extinction. And lest we start thinking, "Well, how about Atlantic salmon?" you might want to know that Atlantic salmon is always farmed, and salmon farming is almost universally regarded by environmentalists as a major pollutant. So what can a well-meaning consumer do?


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