You know that moment in your cartoon life where an angel pops up on one shoulder and a devil on the other? Choosing between Darina Allen's "Forgotten Skills of Cooking" and Dorie Greenspan's "Around My French Table" is a little like that, only on one side there's an angel with a wand tipped with a butter cookie, and on the other there's a second angel, but the kind that finds you, like a biblical Jacob, to wrestle you through the night until you emerge exhausted, possibly injured, and all the better for it.


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