There are some things so transparently cynical in the food world that upon hearing about them I immediately look for someone to blame. I felt this way about the red velvet doughnut ice cream sandwich at the Peter Pan doughnut shop in Brooklyn, N.Y. How calculatedly on-trend is this thing? Unbridled excess? Check. Deep-fried? Check. Affected hominess? Check. And sure enough, the local food blogosphere was going nuts over it. Well, mission accomplished, Captain Hook: You're playing all the kids, for sure. You just cast the line with as much attention-getting gimmickry as … red velvet … you can … doughnuts … muster … ice cream sandwich … and … OK, well, I'll take a bite too.


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